6 min read

Your skin cells talk to each other constantly, sending instructions about what to build and what to repair. They send fewer of those messages every decade, and that slowdown is a large part of why older skin repairs more slowly. Exosomes are a way of putting some of that conversation back.

The short answer

Exosomes are tiny packages that carry instructions between cells, telling them to build collagen, calm inflammation and repair. A well-made serum tops up signaling that declines with age, and it is gentle enough for skin that reacts to most things. Give it twelve weeks. The biology is well established, the clinical research is still developing, and how much a serum achieves is a question researchers are still working through.

Suits All skin types, Sensitive, Mature, Rosacea-prone, Dehydrated
Read time 6 min
Diagram of two skin cells with sealed exosome packages traveling between them, showing how cells send each other instructions.
An exosome is a sealed package of instructions released by one cell and opened by another. You send fewer of them as you age.

What it does

Exosomes are tiny packages that carry instructions between cells, telling them to build collagen, calm inflammation and repair. A well-made serum tops up signaling that declines with age, and it is gentle enough for skin that reacts to most things. Give it twelve weeks. The biology is well established, the clinical research is still developing, and how much a serum achieves is a question researchers are still working through.

How your skin cells communicate

Your skin is not a collection of cells working independently. They coordinate, and they do it by sending each other chemical messages.

One of the ways they do that is by releasing exosomes. An exosome is a tiny bubble of membrane, released by one cell and picked up by another, carrying instructions inside it. Think of it as a sealed envelope. The receiving cell opens it and acts on what it finds.

The instructions that matter for your skin are the ones about repair. Make more collagen. Calm this inflammation. Replace these cells.

Your cells send fewer of these messages as you age. That is part of why a cut heals more slowly at fifty than at twenty, and part of why skin becomes thinner and slower to recover.

What an exosome serum does

It supplies more of those messages. Research indicates exosomes can prompt cells to make more collagen and elastin, slow the enzymes that break existing collagen down, and quiet inflammatory signaling.

This is a different kind of ingredient from most of what we sell. A retinoid or an exfoliating acid acts on your skin directly, changing it. Exosomes hand your cells instructions and let them do the work themselves, which is why there is no stinging and no adjustment period to get through.

One thing to expect, because it surprises people. Exosomes speed up how quickly your skin turns over its cells, and some people notice a short spell of extra texture or small breakouts as congestion that was already forming comes to the surface sooner. It settles.

Getting them into your skin

Exosomes are large molecules and your skin barrier is built to keep large molecules out. How a product solves that problem is worth understanding before you buy, because it decides when and how you use it.

Some products are built with a delivery system that carries the exosomes through intact skin. Those work on an ordinary day in your bathroom, with no help needed.

Others are designed to be used around a professional treatment, when your skin is more receptive. Both can be excellent. What matters is knowing which one you have bought, because a product made for use around treatments is not the one to rely on for daily maintenance, and a daily serum is not necessarily what your provider will want to use on you after a procedure.

It is also part of why prices in this category vary so much.

Where exosomes come from

Every cell in your body releases them. Nobody invented exosomes as an ingredient, and they were written off as cellular waste for years before anyone realized they were carrying messages.

The ones in skincare come from several different sources, and this varies more than most people expect. Some are produced by culturing stem cells in a lab and collecting what those cells release, with the cells originally sourced from umbilical cord tissue, bone marrow or adipose tissue. Others are platelet-derived, taken from human blood. Others again are plant-derived, from roses, ginger or grapes.

Which source a product uses is genuinely important, and it is the first thing to look for on a label. The next section covers what the differences mean.

Diagram showing cell-to-cell messages declining across three life stages, with many packages in transit in your twenties and only one or two by your sixties.
Your cells send fewer of these messages as you age, which is part of why a cut heals more slowly at fifty than at twenty.

What to look for on a label

Exosomes went from a research curiosity to a widely sold ingredient in about three years, and products differ from each other more than they do in most categories. Knowing what to look for is most of what you need.

Human-derived and plant-derived are different ingredients

This is the most important thing on the label. Nearly all of the research showing exosomes do something useful for skin was done with human-derived exosomes, whether from cultured stem cells or from platelets. That is where the collagen and repair signaling evidence comes from.

Plant-derived vesicles, from rose stem cells, ginger, grapes and the like, are a different material sharing the same name. Plants do produce vesicles, and those vesicles carry plant signals. Human skin cells are not built to read them, and the evidence that they do anything comparable is thin at this stage. They are also cheaper to produce and easier to sell under current regulations, which is part of why you see so many of them.

What that means practically is to check which one you are buying. If the source is not named on the packaging, ask.

Ask how it gets into your skin

Getting a large molecule through intact skin is the central problem with this ingredient, and how a product solves it is worth knowing before you buy.

You will not always find that on the packaging, and it is a fair thing to ask a brand directly. A company that has invested in the technology will be glad to tell you how theirs is designed to work.

What a well-documented product tells you

A company that has invested properly in this will say what the exosomes are derived from, how they are isolated, and how many are in the bottle, usually as a particle count. Some will share their characterization data if you ask.

That level of detail is expensive to produce, which makes it a useful signal. Look for the source named, a concentration stated, and specific claims rather than general ones.

Packaging tells you whether they survived

Exosomes are delicate, and heat, light and time break them down. Look for sealed single-use ampoules or airless packaging. Some products ship refrigerated, and some come as a powder you activate before use, both of which are signs the formulation was designed around keeping the ingredient intact.

What is alongside them

Most exosome serums also carry growth factors, peptides and hydrating ingredients, which is a deliberate combination rather than padding.

Worth knowing: if the serum feels soothing and hydrating as you apply it, that is those other ingredients you are feeling. Exosomes are signaling molecules rather than humectants, and their work happens invisibly over the following weeks.

Common questions

When can I use them around a treatment?

Before a treatment, an exosome serum is a good way to get your skin into better condition going in, and we suggest it.

Afterwards, we are conservative. At LAZ Skincare we do not use exosomes for the first forty-eight hours after microneedling. Your skin is doing its own repair work in that window and we prefer to leave it to it.

For lasers and other treatments, the timing is decided case by case, because it depends on what you had done and how your skin responded. Follow the aftercare your provider gave you. If you are a client at our New York City LAZ Clinic, ask us and we will tell you exactly when to start.

Do I need to have treatments for them to work?

Not if your product is built for daily use. A serum with a proper delivery system gets into intact skin on an ordinary day, and daily use is how most people use exosomes.

If your product is one made for use around procedures, it will say so, and it is worth using it the way it was designed to be used.

Exosomes or growth factors?

They are cousins rather than rivals. A growth factor is a single signaling protein, applied on its own. An exosome is a sealed package that can carry many signals at once, growth factors among them, plus fats and genetic messengers. The membrane around the package also protects what is inside and helps your cells take it up.

Growth factors have twenty-odd years of use behind them and more consistency from product to product. Exosomes carry a richer message, and what you receive varies more between products. Both are good ingredients.

Why did I break out when I started?

Exosomes speed up cell turnover, and some people notice extra texture or small breakouts in the first few weeks as congestion that was already forming surfaces sooner than it would have. It passes.

If you are acne-prone or you congest easily, increasing your exfoliation slightly during those weeks usually handles it.

How soon will I see something?

Give it twelve weeks, which is normal for anything working on collagen.

Exosomes do not come with the signs you might associate with an active ingredient working, the way a retinoid brings peeling or an acid brings tingling. The work happens quietly, which is why the photographs matter. Take one on day one and again every four weeks, in natural daylight from the same spot.

Is the science settled?

Not yet. The biology is well described, new studies supporting topical use are arriving, and opinion among skin biologists is still divided on how much a serum achieves and which source is best.

No exosome product currently has FDA approval for treating a skin condition, which means everything available is sold as a cosmetic. We carry exosomes because of the results we see with them in the treatment room, particularly on acne scarring and on firmness, and we are selective about which ones.

Diagram comparing a human-derived exosome fitting a skin cell receptor with a plant-derived one that does not fit.
Plant vesicles carry plant signals. Human skin cells are not built to read them.

How to use it

  • Once or twice daily on clean, dry skin, before anything else. Nothing should sit between an exosome serum and your face.
  • Follow with your usual serums and moisturizer. There is nothing exosomes clash with.
  • Give daily use twelve weeks before judging it. This works on collagen, and collagen takes its time.
  • Before a treatment, use it as normal in the days leading up. Getting your skin into better condition going in is worth doing.
  • After microneedling, leave it for the first forty-eight hours. Soothing products are fine in that window, but nothing anti-inflammatory. For lasers and other treatments, follow the aftercare your provider gave you, because the right timing depends on what you had done.
  • In the days after any treatment, keep the rest of your routine plain. Save the exfoliating acids and the retinoid for later in the week.
  • Follow the storage directions on your packaging. Some exosome products need refrigerating and some ampoules are meant to be used the day you open them, and the packaging will tell you which applies to yours.
  • Broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning, reapplied through the day, and especially in the weeks after a treatment when skin is more prone to pigment.

What we do at the clinic

Depending on the exosome, we usually start clients twice a day and keep that up for two to three months, until we have the result we were after. From there most people drop to once a day for maintenance.

If you are acne-prone or you congest easily, the faster cell turnover can bring more to the surface in the first few weeks. When that happens we usually suggest increasing exfoliation slightly, with a peel pad here and there or an enzyme exfoliation, rather than stopping the exosomes.

Evidence and sources

A note on the evidence. The biology behind exosomes is well described, and their role in cell communication has been studied in depth well outside skincare. The clinical work on topical use is younger. New studies supporting it are arriving, and opinion among skin biologists remains divided on how much a serum achieves and on which source produces the best result.

Two things are worth knowing when you read a claim about exosomes. Products differ enormously in their source and in how they are made, so a result measured with one is not evidence for another. And because most exosome serums also contain growth factors, peptides and hydrating ingredients, separating out what the exosomes themselves contributed is difficult.

Last reviewed

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