6 min read

A face does not only age at the surface. Underneath your skin sit pads of fat that give your cheeks and temples their shape, and those pads thin and shift over time. That is why a face can look hollow even when the skin on it is in good condition. Volufiline is one of the very few topical ingredients aimed at that layer.

The short answer

Volufiline encourages the fat cells beneath your skin to store a little more fat, which makes the area look fuller. It works on the volume loss that comes with age rather than on the skin itself, which makes it genuinely different from the rest of your routine. Give it two to six months of twice-daily use depending on the area, and expect a softening of hollowness rather than the change an injectable filler makes.

Suits All skin types, Mature, Dry, Normal, Sensitive
Read time 6 min
Cross-section diagram of facial tissue showing three layers, with skin on top, a fat pad made of rounded cells in the middle, and muscle below.
The volume in your face sits below your skin, not in it. This is the layer Volufiline is aimed at.

What it does

Volufiline encourages the fat cells beneath your skin to store a little more fat, which makes the area look fuller. It works on the volume loss that comes with age rather than on the skin itself, which makes it genuinely different from the rest of your routine. Give it two to six months of twice-daily use depending on the area, and expect a softening of hollowness rather than the change an injectable filler makes.

Why a face loses volume

Underneath your skin sit pads of fat that give your face its shape. They are what makes a cheek look full and a temple look smooth, and they sit in distinct compartments rather than as one even layer.

With age those pads shrink and shift downward. That is why hollowness appears under the eyes and across the cheeks, and why the lower face can look heavier at the same time as the upper face looks emptier. It happens alongside collagen loss and bone change, and it is a large part of what reads as an older face.

Almost nothing in a bottle addresses that layer. Retinoids, peptides and vitamin C all work on the skin itself. Volufiline is one of the few cosmetic ingredients aimed at the fat beneath it.

How Volufiline works

Volufiline is a combination of two things: a compound called sarsasapogenin, which comes from the root of a plant used in traditional Chinese medicine, and a carrier that helps it absorb.

It works on the fat cells sitting beneath where you apply it. Two things appear to happen. The existing fat cells store more fat, which is the material fat cells are designed to hold, and the cells become slightly more numerous.

More fat held in that small area means the tissue beneath your skin sits a little fuller, and the hollow above it looks less deep.

The effect is local. It happens where you put it rather than anywhere else, which is why you apply it to the specific areas you want fuller rather than across your whole face.

What the research shows

The testing behind Volufiline was carried out by the company that makes the ingredient, which is normal for a trade-named cosmetic ingredient and worth knowing when you weigh the claims.

In that testing, a five percent Volufiline product applied twice daily for two months measured around two percent more volume in the treated area. Two percent is a small number, and on a cheek it reads as a slight softening of hollowness rather than anything dramatic.

So this is an ingredient with a clever idea behind it and modest measured results. That is worth saying plainly, because volume loss is the area where people most hope a cream will do what an injection does.

Where it comes from

Sarsasapogenin comes from Anemarrhena asphodeloides, a plant whose root has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for a long time. Volufiline itself is produced under laboratory conditions so that a formula contains a known and consistent amount.

Diagram comparing a cluster of fat cells before and after, with the cells fuller and more closely packed on the after side.
Fat cells storing a little more lipid means slightly fuller tissue, and a less hollow-looking surface above it.

What to look for on a label

The name it hides behind

Volufiline is a trade name, so it will not appear in the ingredient list. What you will see is hydrogenated polyisobutene and Anemarrhena asphodeloides root extract, usually next to each other. That pairing is how you know it is there.

Some products name Volufiline on the front of the box, which is easier, and others simply list the two ingredients.

Five percent is the tested amount

The research used five percent Volufiline, so that is the figure to look for if a brand states it. Many do not, which is normal for trade-named ingredients.

Look at the rest of the formula

Volufiline products tend to be priced at the higher end, so the rest of the formula should be earning its place too. Peptides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and barrier ingredients alongside it are doing well-established work while the Volufiline does its slower, more specific job.

Where it sits in your routine

Most Volufiline products are serums, which go on first, on clean skin. If yours comes in a moisturizer or an eye cream, use that product at its usual point in your routine.

What works best with Volufiline

Volufiline conflicts with nothing, and it is a natural partner to the ingredients that work on the skin itself, since they are addressing different layers of the same problem. A retinoid or peptides working on collagen, plus Volufiline working on the fat beneath, covers more of what actually changes with age than either does alone.

Sunscreen every morning, reapplied through the day. Sun exposure breaks down the collagen supporting that whole structure, so protecting it keeps the foundation intact.

Common questions

Is this a replacement for filler?

No. A filler is a gel placed into deeper tissue by a clinician, and it changes the contour of your face immediately and noticeably.

Volufiline encourages a small change in the tissue beneath where you applied it, over weeks. The measured result in testing was around two percent more volume. That is visible as a slight softening of hollowness, and it is nothing like an injection. Both are worth having for what each one is, and it is worth knowing which you are buying.

How long until I see results?

It depends on the area. Cheeks and temples tend to respond within around two months, which matches the length of the study. Under-eyes are slower and can take up to six months, because the tissue there is thinner and the change is subtler.

Photograph your face on day one and again every four weeks, in natural daylight, from the same angle and distance each time. A change in volume is genuinely difficult to see in the mirror day to day, and easier to see in two photographs side by side.

Will it make my face fat?

No. The effect is small, gradual and limited to the area you apply it to, and it fades when you stop using it. You are encouraging existing fat cells in one spot to hold slightly more lipid, not changing how your body stores fat.

Does it affect hormones?

Based on the research available, no. Sarsasapogenin has a steroid-like structure, which is why the question comes up, and it is a plant sterol rather than a hormone. This is one of the reasons it was chosen for cosmetic use.

Can I use it under my eyes?

Yes, if your product is made for the eye area, and that is one of the places people most want it. Apply along the orbital bone, the ridge you can feel around the eye socket, rather than close to the lash line. The warmth of the area moves product inward on its own.

Be patient with this area in particular. Under-eyes take longer than cheeks, often up to six months.

Is it safe in pregnancy?

There is no research on Volufiline in pregnancy, which is true of most skincare ingredients, since they are not tested on pregnant people. Ask your OB or midwife and follow what they say.

Simple face profile outline with markers at the temple, cheekbone and under-eye showing where volume loss shows first.
Temples, cheeks and under-eyes are where volume loss shows first, and where you apply it.

How to use it

  • Twice daily, morning and night, which is what the testing used. Once a day will be slower.
  • Apply it first, on clean skin, and give it five to ten minutes to absorb before the rest of your routine. If your Volufiline is in a moisturizer or an eye cream rather than a serum, use that product at its usual point instead.
  • Apply only to the areas where you want volume, such as the cheeks, temples or under-eyes. It works where you apply it, so covering your whole face is not the point.
  • There is no irritation phase and nothing to build your tolerance up to with Volufiline, so you can use it twice daily from the start.
  • Keep the rest of your routine going. Volufiline works on a layer nothing else reaches, so it adds to what you are already doing rather than replacing any of it.
  • Broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning, reapplied through the day.
  • Photograph your face on day one and every four weeks, in natural daylight from the same angle. Give it two months on the cheeks and temples, and up to six months under the eyes, where change is slowest.
Evidence and sources

A note on the evidence. The laboratory science is well documented. Sarsasapogenin stimulates fat cell development and lipid storage, and the biological pathways involved have been identified in detail by the manufacturer using gene expression analysis. That the facial fat pads thin and shift with age is separately well established in medical literature, so the problem Volufiline aims at is real.

The human evidence is thinner. The principal study was conducted by Sederma, the company that developed the ingredient, using five percent over fifty-six days, and reported roughly a two percent increase in volume in the treated area. Independent clinical research has not yet followed, and Volufiline is sold as a cosmetic ingredient rather than an approved treatment for volume loss. We carry products containing it because the reasoning is sound and the formulas around it are strong, and we will keep reading as better research arrives.

Last reviewed

Products with Volufiline

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